From Sewist to Client: a Custom Wardrobe in Hanoi

"We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us."

I am still on a high from our Vietnam vacation --- inspired by the fellow travelers we met along the way, picturesque scenery, my own vanquished fears (an overnight in the 3rd largest cave in the world deep in a leech-filled jungle!), and the silliness and confusion that accompany developing world adventures. What beautiful memories!

Soon after we booked our flights I started researching tailors in Hanoi.  My husband Michael needed a work wardrobe refresh and I wanted a headstart on my wedding season wardrobe.  I quickly settled on Hoa Fashion after learning that it was favored by local expats and recommended by our guidebook.

A third generation family business, Madame Hoa and her daughter Lien are the face of the brand.  Madame is a master of fit, nipping and pinning and smoothing; Lien, a fashion school grad, has a great eye for design and proportion.   The workers -- pattern maker, cloth cutter, men's tailor and several general sewists -- surfaced from the basement to advise during our fittings.  There was a visible security camera feed on the shop's main floor and I was able to glimpse at their comfortable workspace.

We arrived for our initial consultation at 8:30pm and spent two hours with Lien and her mother getting measured, trying on existing shop samples, flipping through catalogues (La Redoute, etc.) and settling on designs.

Madame Hoa measuring Michael during the initial consultation

Michael brought along a sample shirt and I brought images of designs to copy.

From left: Pinterest pants, DVF dress, Laroque tank, Burberry coat, Simplicity 1880

Additionally, we offloaded seven kilos of fabric from our suitcase!  You really can't compare the quality of Asian textiles to their finer European counterparts, so I encouraged Michael to shop for the fabric in advance in NYC.  He purchased the bulk at B&J, including super 120s suiting, shirting, and cashmere flannel for a sport coat.  He also made purchases at Mood and Elliott Berman.  I brought two pieces of stash fabric: a cotton floral print purchased several years ago at Benevento in Venice and a yellow brocade from Zimman's in Lynn, Massachusetts.

Fabrics purchased from B&J

Once we arrived at Hoa neither of us could resist adding to our order with garments made from fabrics from the shop.  Michael added a blue linen suit and several shirts and I added dresses and separates, including a dress and camisole from Vietnamese silk, and two dresses from Korea-milled cotton lawn.

For a small shop, they had an impressive fabric stash including a very small collection of high quality Vietnamese silk manufactured in the Van Phuc Silk village.

In addition to taking extensive measurements, Lien asked that I try on samples of the two designs I wanted to copy from her shop examples: a Burberry trench and a dress.   Her Burberry trench sample was on point and she told me that she had purchased a real Burberry in order to copy everything exactly.  It passed the Gorgeous Fabrics Burberry trench test!   Although I wanted to make some changes to the Burberry trench (princess seams and a flounce, a la Kate Mid), she asked that I try on her sample so she could work from her existing flat pattern to make the changes.  She quickly ascertained that one of my shoulders is taller than the other and made notes so that both shoulders would fit.

I fell in love with this dress which was destined for another client.  Since it was my size, I tried it on and Lien made notes for the pattern maker to alter the existing pattern to my body.

Before leaving, Madame asked if we would like all cotton fabrics pre-washed. These ladies sure do speak my language!

We returned five days later for the first fitting.  Hoa had prepared one of Michael's eight dress shirts and they had wisely chosen the lowest quality of the fabrics to make the initial shirt.

1st fitting.  The buttons are not placed, placket not sewn, and the collar is made out of interfacing

It was interesting to see what they had deliberately finished and what they had not.  Both of his suits were in process (no linings and only one sleeve) and all pants had been sewn.  All hemlines had been hand basted, zippers had not been inserted, and buttons had not been sewn.  For both of our garments, the collars (Burberry trench, Michael's shirts, my DVF shirtdress copy) were made out of interfacing to preserve the fashion fabric in the event of further changes.

First fitting.  Collar is interfaced, nothing is hemmed, and buttons are not placed.  Only one sleeve is inserted.

The inspiration on the left and the copy on the right.  The shape looked terrible on me, so we made it into cigarette pants.

And we did make further changes -- the DVF dress collar was a bit too tight, so Lien cut the collar at the center back and then used tape to achieve a comfortable fit around my neck. Similarly, we reshaped the interfacing collars on the alder style shirt dresses with a pair of scissors.  We discussed linings  and Lien suggested which dresses only needed a 1/2 lining.

My dress on the left and the inspiration on the right

Michael was particularly impressed that Hoa made working buttonholes and vents for the sleeves of his suit jacket and sport coat. According to Michael, most men's RTW -- even upmarket brands like Paul Smith and Hickey Freeman -- do not include working buttonholes on suit jacket sleeves.  Hoa also made several perfect welt pockets in the lining for different purposes:  a pen pocket, general breast pocket, and business card pocket.

Modifications to the pants during the first fitting.  Note that the belt loops are not completed.

Four days after the initial fitting we were back in the shop for the final fitting!  We had recommended Hoa to some fellow travelers whom we had met the previous week on beautiful Phu Quoc Island.  The girls met us at Hoa and we quickly took over the shop!

Our fellow travelers were busy in the back of the shop ordering garments!

While the girls were busy ordering garments, Michael and I made final modifications to ours.

Michael did a "sit-test" for comfort around the thighs

Matching in blue linen (Michael) and Vietnamese silk (me)!

My finished yellow dress on right (still needs a good iron) and the inspiration on the left.

We left Hoa with all garments in tow except for my white linen cigarette pants and two Alder shirt dresses. These were delivered to the hotel the following day. 

From the Grainline pattern to Mai Attique's version to my two new dresses

Giddy with our purchases and wanting to celebrate our last night in style (Michael was itching to wear his sportcoat!), we met up with the girls at our hotel's bar for its famed pho cocktail named in honor of folk singer Joan Baez.
 

With our fellow travelers waiting for Joan Baez pho cocktails; I am wearing another shirt from Hoa!

Baez was a Metropole Hotel guest during the war and recorded parts of "Where are you now my son?" in the hotel bomb shelter where she spent several nights during the Christmas bombing of '72. 

Joan Baez pho cocktail in the making!  Its pyrotechnic presentation recalls the successive Christmas bombings of '72 survived by Baez in the Metropole shelter; the flavors (cardamom, star anise, coriander) are a nod to Pho, Hanoi's iconic dish.

Tour of the historic bomb shelter where Baez and Jane Fonda were "guests."  This bunker was designed for 40 people.  Hotel staff took cover in manholes along the street.  

In my Hoa trench on our last day in Hanoi visiting the Temple of Literature

We are so pleased with our beautiful garments and with the Hoa experience!  Now back to my own dining table "workroom" where I am the pattern maker, cutter, fit specialist, sewer, and everything in between...

Musings on 2015 and Onward with 2016!

2015, what a sewing year!  I feel a good deal more confident in my skills and am excited to continue on my sewing journey.  In total I made 21 garments with lots of pattern repeats, late night sewing sessions, and quality time with the seam ripper!



Without intending to, I sewed disproportionately from Indie pattern companies. And spent the most effort sewing for special events (6 weddings + 1 bar mitzvah).



I was most pleased with the fit and flare knit dress for an engagement party (blogged here).  Bonus: It was a quick and pain-free sew!

Fit and Flare

Ironically, I was  the most disappointed with my Anna dress (blogged here).  I put so much effort into it and still don't think the dress fits all that well or that the design is very flattering on me. Furthermore I really regret buying cheap lace and silk for the project.

Anna Dress

Did the 2015 RTW Fast save me $$ that I would have otherwise spent on clothes? Nope.  After adjusting for my lessons with Sharon and Camp Workroom Social, I still spent about the same on fabric/supplies as I did on RTW clothes in 2014.   I wasn't surprised by these results, as my RTW Fast was more Goodbye Ann Taylor Loft than Goodbye Valentino. Although I abstained from RTW, I did experience an uptick in shoe spending... Got to get that retail therapy in somehow!

It doesn't look like special occasion sewing will be slowing down in 2016.  But I am aiming to stop underestimating the amount of time it takes to complete special occasion garments.  To build up my casual wardrobe, I plan to buy a serger in the spring.

My husband and I are headed to Vietnam for a much anticipated vacation on Friday (!!!)  I plan to bring several pieces of stash fabric with me to take to a well-reputed Hanoi tailor.  I am hoping that these garments will fill in some of my wardrobe holes and I can avoid stressful 2am sewing sessions this year.

2016 Sewing Queue of My Dreams

• Asaka kimono  (Feb 2016)
• Wool knit cardigan (McCall 6844) (Nov 2016)
• Swimsuit 
• Bras that fit!
• Little Black Jungle Dress (Gertie's Bombshell Craftsy Video) (Almost finished!)
• Lace bridesmaid dress with Gertie's video (April 2016)
• Pencil skirt using techniques from Claire Schaeffer book and Craftsy skirt sloper class
• Ginger Jeans
• Susan Khalje Couture Dress class (Craftsy Video) 
• French Jacket (Susan Khalje Video) 
• Workout clothes (steeplechase leggings, Dec 2016)
• Winter coat (Clare Coat or Minoru)
• Pant sloper
• TNT knit t-shirt pattern 
• Style Arc Kate Wrap Dress
• Finish a UFO  (Laurel Dress, May 2016)

I realize that this is a VERY ambitious list.  Ultimately, I will be pleased if I can accomplish 1/2.
Onwards with 2016!

Adventures in Bra Making Part II

Well, this sure was a bust! Looks nice though, doesn't it?

Too bad it doesn't fit...at all. 

The frustrating thing about bramaking is that you don't know whether something fits until it is completely finished.  The 34B white Marlborough that I made at Camp Workroom Social was a bit too small. Wearable but not perfect.  Norma noted that my cup size was between a B and C and advised that for my next bra (the black bra), I cut out a 32D.

Sometimes we must take two steps backward...The 32D doesn't fit at all around the band, though it appears to fit in the cups.  Even with a bra extender I can hardly wear it for 5 minutes!  Although the 32D black bra is unwearable, the sewing experience was still valuable. I really worked on better understanding the construction of the bra and made a ton of notes and changes to the Marlborough construction sequence, etc.with help from my sewing instructor Sharon.

Courtesy of the remnant bin at Sposabella! ($10 for the 3!)

I am bound and determined to make a bra that fits!  Especially now that I have invested so much time and money in the process.  Next up is a 34C using a remnant from Sposabella.  Here's hoping that third time is the charm!

***BRA-MAKING NOTES***

Technique

• Don't forget to trim down the finished seam allowances after topstitching!  In particular after steps 3, 7, and 8 of the Orange Lingerie instructions.
• The Orange Lingerie instructions have you measure out the wire casing along the actual bra cup and add 2 inches (step 12).  This means that 1 inch of casing is sticking out both at the center front of the bra and at the sides.  Once the bra is complete, you cut the casing flush with the bra center front.  After following these instructions, I found that the center front casing was peaking out a little bit from the bra center front in my white bra. For the black bra, I placed the center front casing about 1/8" below the center front and angled it slightly toward the center. When I sewed the casing, I was sure to angle in toward the centerfront and pivot before sewing the next casing/cup combination.  This resulted in a finished bra that didn't have the casing peaking out the center front.  Much better! 
• The Orange Lingerie instructions had me clip the curves along the bra cup seam allowance.  Later, I would need to sew the underwire casing to the seam allowance.  It would have been helpful to have the uncut seam allowance when sewing the underwire casing to the seam allowance so that the underwire casing  has more seam allowance to "grab onto." Next time, I will not cut the curve of the bra cups.

Sewing Sequence

• Complete the cups in full before attaching elastic to underarm (13A) and bottom band (13B).  Using the Orange Lingerie instructions, I skipped step 13 and instead completed 13A after step 19.

• Attach the ring to the elastic first.  Next, create the strap elastic and place it through the ring.

Supplies

• Demiwires:  The D cup underwires are a bit too large so I never put them into the casing of the 32D black bra.  I really prefer the look of demicups, so for my future C cup bra I am going to order demiwires from BraMaker's Supply.  Demicups (also known as "half cups") are shorter than the full underwire and are often characterized by being the same height at the front and the sides. See detailed explanation here. 

• Thick vs. thin straps/elastics.  When I sized up to the D cup, I also sized up in the elastic (from 3/8" to 1/2") and the bra straps (3/8" to 1/2").  As Norma explained, this is intended to provide more support.  She suggests the larger straps/elastics for all D cup and higher.  I really don't like the look of the larger straps and intend to go back down to 3/8" for my future C cup bra.  

Fête, set, GO!

My childhood best friend and second sister, Sara, is getting married in April. (Yes, MORE weddings....) Although Sara and Derek are our neighbors in NYC,  they will wed in our South Carolina hometown.  I am very excited!

My parents co-hosted an engagement party in honor of the happy couple in October. What to wear?  I was on the hunt for a conservative silhouette suitable for cocktail conversation with our parents' friends.

I decided to go with a fit and flare.  The pattern is a rub-off of a much-loved H&M dress:  1/4 circle skirt, waistband, bodice with bust and front/back lengthwise darts.  See the initial version here in black ponte.

The fabric is an Italian matelasse knit from Mulberry Silks in Carrboro, North Carolina.  The weight is similar to a light ponte. The dress is unlined.

I constructed everything on my sewing machine using the walking foot.  To stabilize the shoulder seams (which hold the weight of the dress) I sewed in seam tape along the seam allowance.

I sewed all seams using a straight stitch (not zigzag) before reading in a back issue of Threads magazine that zigzag is the stitch of choice for knits.  Apparently the zigzag stretches and recovers with the fabric.  In contrast a straight stitch easily breaks knits.  Is zigzag really a hard-and-fast rule for knits?   

I stay stitched all the pieces.  I thought this was probably overkill at the time, but it seems the neck gaping is from the fabric stretching out and not because I need to make additional tweaks to the paper pattern. Next time I work from this pattern, I will try to be extra careful to not stretch out the neckline and stay stitch immediately after cutting.

I really love how the sleevecaps stand off the shoulders.

In process picture of the sleeve caps

The sleevecap insides are not my best work.  If I had not been pressed for time, I would have made a bodice lining to hide the sleevecap construction, but admittedly I "franken-sewed" the sleevecaps to the armholes 2 hours before the party.  Luckily, it's not visible from the outside.

The horsehair hem is my favorite part of the dress!



The horsehair makes the skirt stand slightly at attention while still encouraging wavy movement.  Quite party festive, don't you think?

Turning over a Pink and Gold Leaf for the New Year!

My 2015 RTW Fast was marked by last minute sewing for special events.  I am pleased to say I turned over a new leaf in the final hours of 2015!

Originally I had planned to make Gertie's Bombshell dress for a New Year's Eve wedding in Boston.  I allocated Monday-Wednesday of the week between Christmas and New Year's to sew.  Since my office was closed for the week, I just assumed that lady-of-leisure-me could get it all done! WRONG.  By 3am Wednesday morning, I was only on lesson 9 of 16 of Gertie's Craftsy course (no longer available) and thoroughly enjoying the slow pace and couture techniques.



There was no way I would finish in time for our Thursday train to Boston.  So I stepped away from the sewing machine and went "shopping" in my existing wardrobe.  Turning up a New Year's appropriate me-made dress from December 2010!

Vogue 1174,  a now out of print Cynthia Steffe pattern.

I made Vogue 1174 for my husband's holiday party in London in December 2010.  It was a fancy British affair and I can remember being self-conscious about my me-made frock.  I haven't worn it since.

The pink and gold fabric is from Winmill in Boston.  I cannot remember the details of the dress construction.  This is quite an advanced pattern, as it involves boning in the lining and a 15 piece bodice. I worked on the dress over the 2010 Thanksgiving weekend with much needed assistance from my Mom.

For the Boston wedding, I accessorized the dress exactly as I did in 2010.  I wore a little leather and gold flower in my hair purchased on the day of the London party at Liberty.  I sewed up a matching stole made from the leftover fashion fabric and embellished my shoes with me-made shoe clips using gold organza and a rhinestone center.

Cheers to slow and deliberate sewing in the new year!

Low Marks but High on Cheer: Holiday Dress 2015

Last minute sewing for special occasions has dominated my 2015 RTW Fast...all the way to the end.  

In October, I picked up a beautiful purple paisley silk from Kashi with a simple holiday shift dress in mind.  Two nights before flying home for the holidays, I cut out view B of Simplicity 2586, only to discover the next morning that I had cut out two bodice front pieces instead of one bodice front and one bodice back.  

Don't ask how I did that!  I have no idea...

Don't look too closely.  

This is not my best work.  Even the gathering is wonky and uneven in the front.  And, don't get me started on the late night cutting mistakes that led to a bodice lining that is only 6 inches long.  Two things I am proud of:  I did a great job on the very narrow hem and on using bias binding for the armholes.  

This was my second time cutting out silk and the first time I tried to do so without laboriously hand basting the silk to medical paper before cutting.  The silk shifted while cutting. The next time I work with silk, I will try to just baste along the selvedge and 1 cut edge and sandwich the fabric between medical paper before cutting.  

In spite of the low marks on sewing, I received numerous compliments.  And from people who had no idea I had made the dress myself...Go figure.

For the holiday weekend, my brother and his girlfriend came in from Ohio and my sister made the trip from Raleigh.

There were many people to visit,  several parties to attend and still enough time for a family run and lazy afternoons dozing on the couch.   I love being home with my family.

We sure did eat well this year!  Champagne, torchon de foie gras, truffled pecorino, coq au vin, quail, mousse au chocolat, blinis and smoked salmon, les salades de Maman and so much more.  I am now eligible for a serious January diet..

Iles flottantes fait maison!!  

Camp Workroom Social 2015

What a wonderful weekend!  In mid-October, I attended the inaugural Camp Workroom Social sewing retreat at the Frost Valley YMCA in the Catskills.  Cue Dirty Dancing and pillow fight jokes (if you are ALL the husbands).

Camp Workroom Social offered six different sewing intensives:

•  Bra-making with Norma Loehr of Orange Lingerie
•  Pattern-making with Jen Beeman of Grainline Studio
•  Fitting with Melissa Watson and Pamela of Palmer/Pletsch
•  Dressmaking with Christine Haynes using her Emery Dress pattern
•  Ginger Jeans with Heather of Closet Case Files 
•  Children's clothing with Erin of Brooklyn Pattern Co. 

I signed up for bra-making. Our class of 12 students was slated to make 2 Marlborough bras (one white and one black) over the weekend under the guidance of Norma and her lovely assistant Fleur.   Norma's Marlborough pattern has a contemporary and fresh look ideal for smaller chested women.  It's considered a full band bra because the cups are set into the frame. There is an underwire.

We had about 12-14 hours of sewing time over the weekend.  The class began with a private fitting session in "the fitting shed" (aka broom closet) with Norma.  Norma had prepared sample bras in every size with velcro backs.  Based on my fitting session, I cut out a 34B.

The 3 tables of bramakers!  

Norma is a very organized and thoughtful instructor.  Since ordering bramaking supplies can be tricky, Norma had us all order the supplies through her and she showed up to camp with them.  She also provided us with pre-reading from articles in Seamwork and Threads.  During class, she walked us through all of the steps and demoed the tricky parts. Truth be told, ALL the parts were tricky for me.  I had a very dyslexic moment on the first morning where I kept sewing the upper cups incorrectly to the lower cups.

It may look like Maidenform, but it's Me-Made!

Norma did a great job explaining the engineering behind the bra and the construction methods.  For example, she noted that the Marlborough employs small elastic on the upper cup lace to stabilize it and prevent it from stretching. (I have a lovely La Perla lace bra without a stabilizer that is totally stretched out.)

Narrow elastic sewn to the top of the lace on the side of the bra touching the skin

Norma also explained that the frame/band combination should be providing the bulk of the support, not the straps. She showed us how we should use the Direction Of Greatest Stretch (DOGS) across the body so that the bra moves with us and doesn't constrict.

Sewing the wire channels onto the bra.  This was tricky!

After a few minutes in the "fitting shed" with Norma and my new white bra, I sized up to a 32D for the black bra.  Norma explained that the sister sizes are 34B and 32C (down a band size + up a cup or vice versa).  Since I needed more volume in the cup, we needed to size up and out of these sister sizes.  We debated between a 34C and 32D, ultimately deciding on the 32D.  Norma explained that I am probably actually between a B and C cup in volume.

Making bra straps!

Most of the students were able to finish and/or baste the black bra enough to have a 2nd fitting with Norma.  I took my time and only inserted the cups/powerbar into the bridge/frame/band.  I plan to have it fitted by Sharon at my next lesson.  

Black bra in progress

Norma had placed beautiful sample bras on each table and I kept referring to the samples for the rest of the class.  Although I was happy to have the sample as a reference, the pattern instructions are excellent and they even include a few illustrations to help guide you through the particularly tricky parts.  I do wish that the pattern pieces had included a bit more information such as a marking of the center front on the upper and lower cups and a note on the seam allowance (1/4 inch).

When I returned home, I spent some time looking at the Bramakers Supply website (run by Beverly Johnson with whom both Norma and Sharon studied).   Norma had sourced the bra materials included in our kits from Bramakers Supply, including the tricot (Beverly calls it duoplex), lace, narrow elastic, wide elastic, wires, etc. I can't wait to finish my black bra and order supplies for the next one!  Check out these beautiful laces!  



Once I finish the black bra, I plan to deviate a bit from the fabric choices in our Orange Lingerie kits and follow some of Sharon's suggestions.  Instead of power mesh (Beverly calls it stretch mesh with spandex) for the band, I plan to try stretch satin.   Sharon says that this will provide more support.  And, I am not going to line the bridge with the power net.  Because I sized up to a D cup, the elastic straps for my black bra are much thicker.  Norma and Sharon both said that this was necessary to provide adequate support.  But, I intend to try it out with the thinner prettier straps. Instead of using narrow elastic to stabilize the lace, i am going to try silk bias tape/ribbon.



Enough sewing talk...what about the camp experience?  Jennifer did an AH-MAZING job coordinating and planning every detail of the weekend.  The foliage was at peak and the YMCA property itself was pristine.  We had fun morning and evening activities like the me-made trunk show, bonfire, yoga, etc. I even managed to go on a nice little run around one of the ponds on the property.

Can you see the horses in the distance?

But most importantly, the weekend attracted wonderful women from all over with varied sewing and life experiences.  I had a great time chatting with Amanda of Sewin' in the Rain on the shuttle bus to and from camp.  At my classroom table, Angela came all the way from Australia and had 30 years of sewing experience.  And, Kassie (Portland, OR) and Kara (NY State) had several years of sewing experience on me.  It was so fun to chat while sewing!

Bunk 12!!!

I had an awesome bunkroom (6 people) with 2 sets of friends from before camp (Christine+Jessica from Boston and Amy+Suzi from Texas and Minnesota) plus Lily (Seattle) and me. We were all taking different classes, but had a wonderful time sitting around in our pajamas drinking wine and giggling after hours.  What fun!

***

Dining Around the City

Gari:  Upscale sushi spot behind the Museum of Natural History.  I have been wanting to go here forever and had high expectations given all of the good reviews.  It was wonderful.  I can't believe we waited almost 2 years to eat here!  Relaxed service and the sushi was excellent.  I thought it was better than Jewel Bako and a good bit more affordable with more substantial portions. 

Awadh: This Upper West Side Indian restaurant was recently written up in the New Yorker.  The food is from the state of Uttar Pradesh.  I don't know Indian food well enough to appreciate the regional differences, but UP food is supposedly cooked over a slow flame.  Awadh's food is excellent.  Not too greasy, super fresh, and beautifully spiced sauces.  Plus, it's  moderately priced and in the neighborhood.

Richie's Burger Joint: Our neighborhood butcher, Schatzie, recently moved uptown and Schatzie's son Richie has opened a burger joint in the new space.    The restaurant is a no frills neighborhood place with beer on tap and a simple menu.  The burgers are wonderful.  Good beef really makes a difference. (Like a good legacy butcher, Schatzie grinds all meat to order and ALWAYS flirts with his female customers!) And after the meal, Richie stocked me up with sausages/pork/beef from the butcher counter.  Win win!

Huertas: Spanish tapas in the East Village.  I met a friend here recently for dinner.  The food was good, but not as good as I would expect for a place recommended by Smitten Kitchen and on the NYMag critic's pick lists. I don't seem to ever enjoy restaurants with small plates/tapas---always a bit too greasy, fussy, small and expensive.   

Fonda:  Upscale Mexican.   David Lebovitz posted about Fonda on Instagram several months ago and I immediately put it on my list.  We went to the Park Slope location with friends on a rainy Friday night.  I was disappointed by all the entrees at our table--glorified Chipotle. Definitely not returning to the Park Slope location. That said, the overpriced guacamole was very good with a smoky adobo sauce.

Mile End:  Artisan Jewish bakery on the lovely (and very posh) Bond Street in Soho. I had been reading the glowing reviews for months, but didn't want to face the queue. We slipped in without a wait on a rainy Saturday at 3pm.  Michael had the reuben and I had a turkey/mustard/turkey rillettes sandwich. Excellent all around.  I love that the portions were appropriately sized and the smoked meats are not processed.  We didn't try the Montreal style bagels...couldn't quite cheat on Barney Greengrass and their amazing NY style bagels.    

Westville:  Soo good.  There are several locations in the city.  We dined at the Chelsea location. The market vegetable plate is so fresh and tasty and lives up to its hype.  The service is relaxed and the wait isn't too bad.