Adventures in Bra Making Part II

Well, this sure was a bust! Looks nice though, doesn't it?

Too bad it doesn't fit...at all. 

The frustrating thing about bramaking is that you don't know whether something fits until it is completely finished.  The 34B white Marlborough that I made at Camp Workroom Social was a bit too small. Wearable but not perfect.  Norma noted that my cup size was between a B and C and advised that for my next bra (the black bra), I cut out a 32D.

Sometimes we must take two steps backward...The 32D doesn't fit at all around the band, though it appears to fit in the cups.  Even with a bra extender I can hardly wear it for 5 minutes!  Although the 32D black bra is unwearable, the sewing experience was still valuable. I really worked on better understanding the construction of the bra and made a ton of notes and changes to the Marlborough construction sequence, etc.with help from my sewing instructor Sharon.

Courtesy of the remnant bin at Sposabella! ($10 for the 3!)

I am bound and determined to make a bra that fits!  Especially now that I have invested so much time and money in the process.  Next up is a 34C using a remnant from Sposabella.  Here's hoping that third time is the charm!

***BRA-MAKING NOTES***

Technique

• Don't forget to trim down the finished seam allowances after topstitching!  In particular after steps 3, 7, and 8 of the Orange Lingerie instructions.
• The Orange Lingerie instructions have you measure out the wire casing along the actual bra cup and add 2 inches (step 12).  This means that 1 inch of casing is sticking out both at the center front of the bra and at the sides.  Once the bra is complete, you cut the casing flush with the bra center front.  After following these instructions, I found that the center front casing was peaking out a little bit from the bra center front in my white bra. For the black bra, I placed the center front casing about 1/8" below the center front and angled it slightly toward the center. When I sewed the casing, I was sure to angle in toward the centerfront and pivot before sewing the next casing/cup combination.  This resulted in a finished bra that didn't have the casing peaking out the center front.  Much better! 
• The Orange Lingerie instructions had me clip the curves along the bra cup seam allowance.  Later, I would need to sew the underwire casing to the seam allowance.  It would have been helpful to have the uncut seam allowance when sewing the underwire casing to the seam allowance so that the underwire casing  has more seam allowance to "grab onto." Next time, I will not cut the curve of the bra cups.

Sewing Sequence

• Complete the cups in full before attaching elastic to underarm (13A) and bottom band (13B).  Using the Orange Lingerie instructions, I skipped step 13 and instead completed 13A after step 19.

• Attach the ring to the elastic first.  Next, create the strap elastic and place it through the ring.

Supplies

• Demiwires:  The D cup underwires are a bit too large so I never put them into the casing of the 32D black bra.  I really prefer the look of demicups, so for my future C cup bra I am going to order demiwires from BraMaker's Supply.  Demicups (also known as "half cups") are shorter than the full underwire and are often characterized by being the same height at the front and the sides. See detailed explanation here. 

• Thick vs. thin straps/elastics.  When I sized up to the D cup, I also sized up in the elastic (from 3/8" to 1/2") and the bra straps (3/8" to 1/2").  As Norma explained, this is intended to provide more support.  She suggests the larger straps/elastics for all D cup and higher.  I really don't like the look of the larger straps and intend to go back down to 3/8" for my future C cup bra.  

Camp Workroom Social 2015

What a wonderful weekend!  In mid-October, I attended the inaugural Camp Workroom Social sewing retreat at the Frost Valley YMCA in the Catskills.  Cue Dirty Dancing and pillow fight jokes (if you are ALL the husbands).

Camp Workroom Social offered six different sewing intensives:

•  Bra-making with Norma Loehr of Orange Lingerie
•  Pattern-making with Jen Beeman of Grainline Studio
•  Fitting with Melissa Watson and Pamela of Palmer/Pletsch
•  Dressmaking with Christine Haynes using her Emery Dress pattern
•  Ginger Jeans with Heather of Closet Case Files 
•  Children's clothing with Erin of Brooklyn Pattern Co. 

I signed up for bra-making. Our class of 12 students was slated to make 2 Marlborough bras (one white and one black) over the weekend under the guidance of Norma and her lovely assistant Fleur.   Norma's Marlborough pattern has a contemporary and fresh look ideal for smaller chested women.  It's considered a full band bra because the cups are set into the frame. There is an underwire.

We had about 12-14 hours of sewing time over the weekend.  The class began with a private fitting session in "the fitting shed" (aka broom closet) with Norma.  Norma had prepared sample bras in every size with velcro backs.  Based on my fitting session, I cut out a 34B.

The 3 tables of bramakers!  

Norma is a very organized and thoughtful instructor.  Since ordering bramaking supplies can be tricky, Norma had us all order the supplies through her and she showed up to camp with them.  She also provided us with pre-reading from articles in Seamwork and Threads.  During class, she walked us through all of the steps and demoed the tricky parts. Truth be told, ALL the parts were tricky for me.  I had a very dyslexic moment on the first morning where I kept sewing the upper cups incorrectly to the lower cups.

It may look like Maidenform, but it's Me-Made!

Norma did a great job explaining the engineering behind the bra and the construction methods.  For example, she noted that the Marlborough employs small elastic on the upper cup lace to stabilize it and prevent it from stretching. (I have a lovely La Perla lace bra without a stabilizer that is totally stretched out.)

Narrow elastic sewn to the top of the lace on the side of the bra touching the skin

Norma also explained that the frame/band combination should be providing the bulk of the support, not the straps. She showed us how we should use the Direction Of Greatest Stretch (DOGS) across the body so that the bra moves with us and doesn't constrict.

Sewing the wire channels onto the bra.  This was tricky!

After a few minutes in the "fitting shed" with Norma and my new white bra, I sized up to a 32D for the black bra.  Norma explained that the sister sizes are 34B and 32C (down a band size + up a cup or vice versa).  Since I needed more volume in the cup, we needed to size up and out of these sister sizes.  We debated between a 34C and 32D, ultimately deciding on the 32D.  Norma explained that I am probably actually between a B and C cup in volume.

Making bra straps!

Most of the students were able to finish and/or baste the black bra enough to have a 2nd fitting with Norma.  I took my time and only inserted the cups/powerbar into the bridge/frame/band.  I plan to have it fitted by Sharon at my next lesson.  

Black bra in progress

Norma had placed beautiful sample bras on each table and I kept referring to the samples for the rest of the class.  Although I was happy to have the sample as a reference, the pattern instructions are excellent and they even include a few illustrations to help guide you through the particularly tricky parts.  I do wish that the pattern pieces had included a bit more information such as a marking of the center front on the upper and lower cups and a note on the seam allowance (1/4 inch).

When I returned home, I spent some time looking at the Bramakers Supply website (run by Beverly Johnson with whom both Norma and Sharon studied).   Norma had sourced the bra materials included in our kits from Bramakers Supply, including the tricot (Beverly calls it duoplex), lace, narrow elastic, wide elastic, wires, etc. I can't wait to finish my black bra and order supplies for the next one!  Check out these beautiful laces!  



Once I finish the black bra, I plan to deviate a bit from the fabric choices in our Orange Lingerie kits and follow some of Sharon's suggestions.  Instead of power mesh (Beverly calls it stretch mesh with spandex) for the band, I plan to try stretch satin.   Sharon says that this will provide more support.  And, I am not going to line the bridge with the power net.  Because I sized up to a D cup, the elastic straps for my black bra are much thicker.  Norma and Sharon both said that this was necessary to provide adequate support.  But, I intend to try it out with the thinner prettier straps. Instead of using narrow elastic to stabilize the lace, i am going to try silk bias tape/ribbon.



Enough sewing talk...what about the camp experience?  Jennifer did an AH-MAZING job coordinating and planning every detail of the weekend.  The foliage was at peak and the YMCA property itself was pristine.  We had fun morning and evening activities like the me-made trunk show, bonfire, yoga, etc. I even managed to go on a nice little run around one of the ponds on the property.

Can you see the horses in the distance?

But most importantly, the weekend attracted wonderful women from all over with varied sewing and life experiences.  I had a great time chatting with Amanda of Sewin' in the Rain on the shuttle bus to and from camp.  At my classroom table, Angela came all the way from Australia and had 30 years of sewing experience.  And, Kassie (Portland, OR) and Kara (NY State) had several years of sewing experience on me.  It was so fun to chat while sewing!

Bunk 12!!!

I had an awesome bunkroom (6 people) with 2 sets of friends from before camp (Christine+Jessica from Boston and Amy+Suzi from Texas and Minnesota) plus Lily (Seattle) and me. We were all taking different classes, but had a wonderful time sitting around in our pajamas drinking wine and giggling after hours.  What fun!

***

Dining Around the City

Gari:  Upscale sushi spot behind the Museum of Natural History.  I have been wanting to go here forever and had high expectations given all of the good reviews.  It was wonderful.  I can't believe we waited almost 2 years to eat here!  Relaxed service and the sushi was excellent.  I thought it was better than Jewel Bako and a good bit more affordable with more substantial portions. 

Awadh: This Upper West Side Indian restaurant was recently written up in the New Yorker.  The food is from the state of Uttar Pradesh.  I don't know Indian food well enough to appreciate the regional differences, but UP food is supposedly cooked over a slow flame.  Awadh's food is excellent.  Not too greasy, super fresh, and beautifully spiced sauces.  Plus, it's  moderately priced and in the neighborhood.

Richie's Burger Joint: Our neighborhood butcher, Schatzie, recently moved uptown and Schatzie's son Richie has opened a burger joint in the new space.    The restaurant is a no frills neighborhood place with beer on tap and a simple menu.  The burgers are wonderful.  Good beef really makes a difference. (Like a good legacy butcher, Schatzie grinds all meat to order and ALWAYS flirts with his female customers!) And after the meal, Richie stocked me up with sausages/pork/beef from the butcher counter.  Win win!

Huertas: Spanish tapas in the East Village.  I met a friend here recently for dinner.  The food was good, but not as good as I would expect for a place recommended by Smitten Kitchen and on the NYMag critic's pick lists. I don't seem to ever enjoy restaurants with small plates/tapas---always a bit too greasy, fussy, small and expensive.   

Fonda:  Upscale Mexican.   David Lebovitz posted about Fonda on Instagram several months ago and I immediately put it on my list.  We went to the Park Slope location with friends on a rainy Friday night.  I was disappointed by all the entrees at our table--glorified Chipotle. Definitely not returning to the Park Slope location. That said, the overpriced guacamole was very good with a smoky adobo sauce.

Mile End:  Artisan Jewish bakery on the lovely (and very posh) Bond Street in Soho. I had been reading the glowing reviews for months, but didn't want to face the queue. We slipped in without a wait on a rainy Saturday at 3pm.  Michael had the reuben and I had a turkey/mustard/turkey rillettes sandwich. Excellent all around.  I love that the portions were appropriately sized and the smoked meats are not processed.  We didn't try the Montreal style bagels...couldn't quite cheat on Barney Greengrass and their amazing NY style bagels.    

Westville:  Soo good.  There are several locations in the city.  We dined at the Chelsea location. The market vegetable plate is so fresh and tasty and lives up to its hype.  The service is relaxed and the wait isn't too bad.